I see how it is – float an idea to the Houston Press’ food critic, and all of a sudden it’s
I’m really looking forward to reading [this blog] on a regular basis after a discussion with new blogger Eric Sandler yesterday about “the useful restaurant” that doesn’t get accolades for its food but is nevertheless comfortable, serviceable and, well, useful.
Now I guess it’s put up or shut up. Thanks Katharine.
I’m sure there are people out there who constantly chase new dining experiences. Hell, I can even think of one or two. While I’m open to checking out some new hot spot, the reality is that I mostly cycle between about ten favorite restaurants. They don’t necessarily serve the best food in Houston, but they all meet my needs in various ways. They are, in a word, useful.
What makes a restaurant useful? There are a few qualities that all of my favorites have in common. Let me examine them one at a time.
First of all, a useful restaurant is one that’s close to home. It doesn’t have to be close enough to walk to, although that helps, but it should be reasonably close by. A restaurant that’s close allows me to make a last-minute decision to dine there. I like that flexibility. It also means a decreased likelihood for traffic tie ups and the associated potential aggravation of driving a long distance.
In addition to proximity, a useful restaurant should also be welcoming, or, to recall my D&D days, at least neutral in its alignment. I’m not asking anyone to remember my name or my favorite order, just pretend that you’re happy I’m there and have an opinion about whether that day’s special is particularly worthy. Also, since I’m a Target polo and jeans kind of guy, a useful restaurant is casual. If I have to go for khakis or a button-down, you’re instantly relegated to special occasion only status.
Finally, there’s the food. A useful restaurant needs to have food that rates as pretty good. It doesn’t have to be great. It certainly can’t be bad. At least, it can’t be all bad. In fact, most of my usual haunts have one or two dishes that I order again and again. They’re usually true comfort classics like spaghetti and meatballs or beef with broccoli. Not the sort of stuff one would drive across town for. While such pedestrian dishes might not earn me foodie cred points, I think it’s tasty. Also, not to be too obvious, but a generous portion that leaves me with leftovers for lunch the next day helps, too. Finally, it should be reasonably priced. Ideally, I want dinner for two to cost no more than $30.
Perhaps my favorite useful restaurant is Paulie’s. At the risk of offending the staff, I wouldn’t say Paulie’s is among Houston’s best restaurants, and I think that’s a general consensus among my friends. I can’t, for example, ever recall seeing someone celebrate a birthday or other special occasion there. However, it meets all of my needs in a restaurant just about perfectly. It’s close enough to home that I could walk there if I expanded my definition of “walking distance.” It’s casual, counter-service style makes it perfect for a quick bite or dinner alone.
Then there’s the food. One look at the menu shows they aren’t redefining Houston’s understanding of Italian food. Still, there are plenty of thoughtful touches. Whether it’s the chunky gazpacho or homemade sorbet, Paulie’s food is always better than it has to be. Although my usual order is spaghetti and meatballs, I treasure my rare Saturday night visits. That’s when they serve a special of spaghetti vongole. Considering my usual experience with that dish is a mess of finely chopped clams of unknown provenance, seeing the actual animals in the shell constitutes going above and beyond in my book.
If you’re live in or near Montrose and are bored with your usual restaurant choices, check out Paulie’s. Stick to the basic stuff on the menu. Save room for dessert. I think you’ll enjoy it. I’d tell you to tell them I sent you, but they probably wouldn’t know who you’re talking about. That’s ok. It’s still useful.
Nice post, Eric… Only you say that you have about ten useful restaurants that you cycle through, but then you only list one of them… I recognize that each person will have a unique list, but I’d love to hear what your other nine are.
Gotta leave you wanting more for next time. I’m sure there’s an Eating Our Words style “top 10 useful restaurants” in my future.
Nice post. My useful restaurant is Osaka Japanese.
My useful sushi alternative used to be Oishii, but it’s become so popular that there’s always a wait. That is NOT useful. I like Osaka, but it might be a little too expensive for useful status. Or I should stop ordering Uni there. One or the other.
Eric, I really enjoyed reading your blog. I like your writing style. It’s true, too. For example, no one ever writes about Chatters. Yet it’s been there for many years. I’ve yet to go there but for some, it appears to be a most useful restaurant.
The single restaurant that I go to most is of course Himalaya because of my friendship with Kaiser.
But now, I realize that I don’t really have a useful restaurant that I can call my own.
Thanks Jay. I suspect the concept of a useful restaurant mostly applies to people like me who eat out much more often than they cook. If a person’s dining out is mostly for occasions or based on long-time friendships, s/he might not need a useful restaurant.
I remember this conversation over osso bucco lol. Awesome post, can’t wait to read the next one, and thanks for the shout!
Yeah, I have about 3 or 4 more of these riffs that I’ve been talking to people about for a long time still to blog about. Then I have to develop some new material. Scary thought.
Great writeup, Eric. If I had to pick the “useful” restaurant near me it would be either Guadalajara or Pappy’s. Neither are out of this world, but definitely way better than they have to be (yes, I’m stealing your line).
Pappy’s is a perfect example, although it’s too far from me for frequent visits. Cheap frozen margaritas that actually taste like tequila, and enough choices on the menu to make anyone happy. What’s not to love?
I felt obligated to add one more restaurant to my family’s “useful” restaurants list, if for no other reason – the owner recognizes me and my family, and is always really friendly to all of us. Cafe Chopstix on I-10 is a fantastic little (probably not “authentic”) Chinese place in the strip center adjacent to the big Bunker Hill strip center. Infinitely better than the completely awful Panda Express that’s over there, and honestly they have some of the best fried rice I’ve ever had. The only down side is that they’re closed on Sundays and if you have an aversion to church pamphlets on the counter (and I’ll admit, I usually do), but really… the food is excellent for what it is, and I’ve never had anything off the menu that was bad.
Couple caveats for this ‘outer looper’. First, my definition goes from walkable to just a place I’m frequently near. That place being downtown Houston, my useful is Market Square Bar & Grill. I also have to add having decent beer on tap to the qualifiers list. So, the Stags Head rises up as well.
Nicely done.
I should acknowledge that my requirements have evolved over the seven years I’ve lived inside the loop. When I was growing up in Sugar Land, our acceptable radius was much longer, which meant frequent 20 minute trips up Eldridge to Lasagna House for the same sort of casual, Italian-American food I now eat at Paulie’s.